I also dynamatted the cutouts in the top of the trunk to kill the rattle that the sub was making since it faces directly up.

The article calls this the 2012 Honda s3000, but is Honda really going to keep the current generation s2000 for 12 years? It’s entirely possible. The NSX remained pretty much the same for 15 years.

http://www.leftlanenews.com/honda-s3000.html

So this weekend I decided to figure it out and it turns out that it’s pretty simple. There aren’t any screws or bolts (which I had been looking for and that’s why I had been confused), the clear housing simply pops out and is held in by pressure tabs on the side. Using a knife, or some other flat object, you can just pry it out.

Once the cover is removed, you’ll see that there’s a single 194 light bulb.

This light bulb just pulls straight out and can be replaced with the light of your choice. I went with an LED hyperwhite light that I found on ebay for about $8 shipped (pair of two). Pop the new bulb in, just press the clear housing until it snaps, and voilà, no more dingy yellow light.

The first time that this started happening in my ‘04 AP2, it would really drive me nuts. Noticing that the pedal wouldn’t click twice in a row if I left my foot lightly (not at all engaged) on the pedal, I tightened the nut under the clutch to take out most of the extra play. This actually solved the problem, although it felt uncomfortable not having any play in the clutch pedal (although since there was still the slightest bit of play, I assume it was fine). Eventually I backed out the nut and the click sound was still gone.

I did a bit of researching and it seems that the likely problem is that the push rod is not being lubricated well enough and something is binding. To lubricate this though, you need to remove the clutch cylinder which seems like more work than it’s worth. I’ve only had the click come back a few times and it only stays around for a little bit. I’ve noticed two other things about this click: If I cycle the clutch pedal (push it all the way to the floor, hold it for a second and let it all the way back out) a couple of times, the click usually goes away. I also noticed that I usually get this click when I have to drive in stop-and-go traffic on the freeway for an hour or so, where there’s a lot of clutch-in/clutch-out action.

If anyone else has had this problem or knows exactly what’s causing it, please comment and share.

This CR ratchets the thrills up a notch over the base car with its stiffened chassis, more aggressive suspension tuning, quicker steering rack ratio and weight reduction. The result is a dialed-in track star that oozes refinement, from the slick unity of shifter and clutch pedal to the high-revving inline-four to its inherently balanced handling characteristics.

Read the full Autoweek “Short Stint” review here:
http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/200809260430/

It was a cool scene in the film, but I guess Vin got a little more into character than we all expected. A damaged fender, hood, bumper and headlight wasn’t supposed to be part of the deal!

Here’s a picture of the damage:

And here’s what the s2k looked like before the accident:

The final result was a bit of a mess and just sounded like a bunch of farting, but it was fun to see him attempt it, and great that the s2000 was a part of it.

I know that the majority of the cars on the road are automatics, and most of the time I could care less what someone else is driving, but it drives me nuts when people buy expensive sporty-cars with an automatic transmission and talk about all of the “racing” they’ve done and random cars they’ve “beat.” I’ve got a friend (sorry if you’re reading Cos =p) that has a BMW 335i, which is a pretty fast car… but it’s an automatic (regular automatic, not fancy paddle shift w/clutch like the M3). Every time he starts to mention a Porsche he “smoked” or a motorcycle he beat, i usually just roll my eyes and change the subject, ’cause otherwise it’s just going to become a fight.

When you drive an automatic, you have almost nothing to do with the performance of your car. You should be faster than cars that are faster than you, and slower than cars that are slower. If you “race” an automatic car, you might as well just email each other the standard 0-60 or quarter mile times and be done with it. If you “beat” a manual car that should be faster than you, that means the other driver sucked, there was nothing special about how hard you pushed the accelerator.

With a manual car, a lot of it comes down to the driver. There’s a wide range of driving abilities out there so you can compete with a variety of cars in your class and if you beat a car that should be faster than you, you have something to be proud of. If I were to run against a manual 335i with a medium/poor driver I would likely beat him and could continue my disdain for BMW drivers (again, sorry Cos), if the same car had a good/medium driver, me and my s2000 would likely lose and their BMW superiority complex would remain intact… but at least in this scenario, they would have earned it.

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